Later I found that spring clamps are just as good and aid in the speed of setting up. After the
addition of foam board, I drew out the track plan. Next came HO cork road bed to aid in sound
deadening. Foam board tends to magnify the sound and can be very noisy during operation.
Laying of the track came next and the wiring was soldered to the bottom of the rails with 20 gauge
wire then connected to terminal blocks under the module. From these blocks I ran 16 gauge wire
with XLR plugs on each end purchased at Fry's Electronics . Male on the left and Female on the
right. Next I glued foam board to the top with Loctite All-Purpose adhesive and shaped to form
addition of foam board, I drew out the track plan. Next came HO cork road bed to aid in sound
deadening. Foam board tends to magnify the sound and can be very noisy during operation.
Laying of the track came next and the wiring was soldered to the bottom of the rails with 20 gauge
wire then connected to terminal blocks under the module. From these blocks I ran 16 gauge wire
with XLR plugs on each end purchased at Fry's Electronics . Male on the left and Female on the
right. Next I glued foam board to the top with Loctite All-Purpose adhesive and shaped to form
| Folding module |
Short leg pinned low
Long leg pinned High
Rod Brace
XLR Plugs
T-Nut
The concept was to design a portable module that could be
put in the back of a car. For this reason I decided on 2X4
foot modules. I wanted something light however strong. It
had to fold up so as to store easily and transport just as easily.
The total cost of what you see below was about $30.00.
put in the back of a car. For this reason I decided on 2X4
foot modules. I wanted something light however strong. It
had to fold up so as to store easily and transport just as easily.
The total cost of what you see below was about $30.00.
| I chose to build on top of the 1/4" plywood with one inch foam board to allow a stream on the front edge of the modules. The legs have t-nuts with carriage bolts to allow adjustment in height. I chose to brace the 2x2" legs with 1/4" plywood. Close up of my module shows the bolts and wing nuts |
allowing legs to pivot and fold up under the module.
One set of legs are shorter than the other and pinned
lower on the side boards.
One set of legs are shorter than the other and pinned
lower on the side boards.
Both braced with a rod bent to fit in holes
drilled in legs and side boards. The two modules
were joined together with t-nuts and bolts.
drilled in legs and side boards. The two modules
were joined together with t-nuts and bolts.
hills and valleys with a wire brush. Once the
shape was done I went back over the joints
and cracks with paintable painters chalk. I
shape was done I went back over the joints
and cracks with paintable painters chalk. I
| Bolt |
purchased some miss matched paint at Lowes
and painted the base. Ready for scenery.
and painted the base. Ready for scenery.
| Something New |
| Something New |
